Restoring the power of a 1986 110bhp XU92C engine

[missa91]

Yes but most of the time, by opening your engine, you discover a lot of bad things

I am repairing a XU9JA and I got some suprises... A saw broke on the engine block, trouble with two pistons rings, etc...

Sometimes, it is better to find another engine, to repair it and to put it directly on your car when finished

agree! but let him first get the compression

[thefunkyboy]

For sure!

[amilo123]

ok, so I was today at the mechanic, but his tester was broken. I will buy this one http://magazinulcuscule.ro/produse/yato ... -compresie" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I think that this is ok no? I think it has 2 sizes. There is a big one screwed over a large one. I think that the small one fits right?

So I only have to screw this in place of a spark plug right?

Also today I went to the guy who knows carburetors. He got the carb out of the car, cleaned it with compressed air and tested it...40 euros later and he said that everything was ok, except for a valve that prevents the engine from getting flooded when cold. He said it wasn't working at all, and that is the reason why the car consumes so much fuel when cold... He did some adjustments and he thinks that it would be better now.

Now the idle speed isn't fluctuating as much, but it's not exactly steady either... He said that it could be an electrical problem, maybe from the alternator... But at night I hadn't notice the lights fluctuating or anything... He also said to change the wires to the spark plugs (I don't know the technical term in english for them..) Could this be the problem?

[missa91]

Yes, when you replace cables you should replace the distributor cap and rotor. And maybe the spark plugs. Alternator faults can be easily tested, get a voltage meter and measure om the battery while car is running. From 12.8-14.8 volts is good, everything else is bad.

Yes, there is a needle valve on the carb which when bad floods and you get intermittent idle, higher consumption and in worst cases, when you turn of your car it still runs for a second, two.

Also this compression meter looks like it's for a diesel, but I'm not that sure. But if you buy one with the screw you will be able to do it by yourself without any help.

[thefunkyboy]

You can buy a restoring kit that includes the valve that prevents the engine from getting flooded when cold. It is only a small part in rubber with a metal part. But it is also possible to only buy this part separetely.

To test the compression rate, you have to drive your car in order to get the engine warm enough to do the test (oil: at least 85°C)

Same advice as missa91: 21 bars is generally for diesel modele.

For your alternator, it may be a trouble of the voltage regulator. It is easy to check the state. In fact, on the lateral part of the alternator, you have a separated part fixed by two screws.

When new, it is like that:


This one is almost broken or already broken:

[missa91]

To test the compression rate, you have to drive your car in order to get the engine warm enough to do the test (oil: at least 85°C)

i have always done it with a cold engine.

[beni]

You can buy a restoring kit that includes the valve that prevents the engine from getting flooded when cold. It is only a small part in rubber with a metal part. But it is also possible to only buy this part separetely.

I think this valve is not part of the kit ... (Peugeot kit anyway ...) you must buy it separetely

[thefunkyboy]

To test the compression rate, you have to drive your car in order to get the engine warm enough to do the test (oil: at least 85°C)

i have always done it with a cold engine.

Yes but the values would be different from the normal test (your engine works properly at 85°C)

You can buy a restoring kit that includes the valve that prevents the engine from getting flooded when cold. It is only a small part in rubber with a metal part. But it is also possible to only buy this part separetely.

I think this valve is not part of the kit ... (Peugeot kit anyway ...) you must buy it separetely

You shouldn't go to Peugeot in order to buy this kind of parts. I have some contacts to buy in retail or a full package.

If necessary, I can send it abroad Missa91

[amilo123]

I already bought a restoration kit last summer, but the new valve doesn't fit...

Spark plugs are new (NKG) and the distributor cap also. Cables are original as far as I know, the rotor I don't know...

[thefunkyboy]

Do you have a pic of this part?

The Solex 34/34Z1 seems to be standard but there was some difference inside. In the kit I bought, there were two different valves for the same application.

If you can't find it, I can contact someone in France.

[amilo123]

Do you have a pic of this part?

The Solex 34/34Z1 seems to be standard but there was some difference inside. In the kit I bought, there were two different valves for the same application.

If you can't find it, I can contact someone in France.

I will go later to the car, to clean it, and I will take may laptop and send you some pictures

[missa91]

What about the compression on this engine? Is there any news?

[amilo123]

no news yet, i think i will do it by the end of the month...I will keep you posted

[amilo123]

I finally bought the tester today (20eur). Now I am waiting for the engine to cool.

In the mean time I looked at the spark plugs and I have a couple of pictures:

http://yfrog.com/nyimag0108ij" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://img220.yfrog.com/img220/4962/imag0106c.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://img718.yfrog.com/img718/3191/imag0107aa.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are quite oily (the brownish part), and the electrodes are grey...

What do you think?

PS: I couldn't get no1 off, it was to hard, I let it in there until the engine cools...

And what values sould I expect from the test?

[amilo123]

ok so I did the test twice, once with the engine cold (it hasn't run for 3 and a half hours) and one with the engine at normal temperature, as it says in heynes.

the resuts:
cold:
c1 - 13.8
c2 - 13.9
c3 - 14
c4 - 13.1
hot:
c1 - 14
c2 - 14
c3 - 10.5
c4 - 13.9

I am concerned aboout the readings in bold...What do you think?

Also I made an youtube playlist with the tests, if you would like to see. Because I heard that the rate at witch it reaches the max compression is also imprtant.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?p=PL694C6D48F1BF222C" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;